1. Get your Game of Thrones on

Long-time readers of Where the Souls Wander know how keen I am of HBO’s blockbuster series Game of Thrones, and that when the opportunity arises,  I’ll always try to squeeze in a filming location wherever I travel.

If you’re a fan of the series, you’re likely familiar with the fact that Ait Ben Haddou was one of the filming sites in season three, where it doubled as Yunkai, one of the great cities in Slaver’s Bay.

It was at Ait Ben Haddou when Daenerys Targaryen and her army of Unsullied started the battle to free the slaves from the Wise Masters.

While Ait is truly impressive, knowing that it was used for a cinematic masterpiece as Game of Thrones adds a significant touch of additional charm to the mesmerising scenery found here.

Like most things Game of Thrones-related, Ait also gained a tremendous influx of new interest from travellers and locals alike, and discovering the kasbah one step at a time to uncover recognition points of the awarded series feels somewhat like an adventurous treasure hunt.

But Ait Ben Haddou had made it to the big screen long before GOT was a thing.

You see, Ait has been the set for plenty of movies; Kingdom of Heaven, Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator The Mummy, Alexander and Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time to name but a few.

2. Get lost in the narrow alleyways of the Kasbah

Getting lost in Ait Ben Haddou’s dusty nooks and alleyways is in many ways like taking a journey back in time, and easily the best way to experience the Kasbah.

As you make your way through the maze-like laneways, you will likely stumble upon some of the ksar’s remaining citizens, who in their turn, will try to sell you their goods, play you traditional Berber instruments, or even invite you over for a fresh mint tea or two.

Lined by iconic ochre-coloured houses made of adobe (mud-brick), these narrow streets and laneways are best explored in the early morning when masses of day-trippers have yet to arrive.

While there’s no official fee to enter the Kasbah, you’ll likely stumble upon a man who asks for money if you enter via the entrance near the river. Given he’s pretty pushy and intimidating, I’d highly recommend entering Ait Ben Haddou via the entrance next to the bridge instead.

All in all, it’s quite an experience to wander through the Kasbah, as it offers a glimpse into the town’s history as a thriving merchant village along the Trans-Saharan trade route, while also giving a feel of the present way of life within the Ksar.

3. Hike to the viewpoint

Ait Ben Haddou is built against a hill that is roughly 100 meters high, and climbing it to take in the views from the summit is something I think everyone with the right level of fitness should do.

Whilst exploring the kasbah on a roam without a plan has been my favourite, overlooking the clay rooftops from above with the vast desert on one hand and the lush oasis on the other is really something quite special.

Upon entry into the kasbah, you’ll quickly notice that practically all the laneways lead to either the summit of the hill or one of the many rooftop terraces in the upper ranks of the village – more on that later.

Unless you visit Ait during the shoulder months, it will be scorching hot during a daytime visit, so therefore it is crucial to plan your visit wisely if you have the intention to hike to the viewpoint.

I personally went up in the early morning, and I would highly recommend you to do the same, or opt for a late afternoon, given this is also the best time for seriously good photography, with the soft light turning Ait into a fairytale-like frame.

5. Experience the sunrise at Ait Ben Haddou

To me, one of the best ways to behold Ait Ben Haddou is during a sunrise, when the iconic characteristics of the mud-brick buildings get illuminated by the first rays of daylight.

During an early morning visit, the Ait locals will slowly go about their day, while the hoards of tourists are yet to arrive, resulting in a truly intimate experience, with probably only a few other people wandering around the grounds of the Kasbah.

To have the above experience, I believe it’s essential to rent your own set of wheels, so you have the flexibility to arrive at Ait Ben Haddou somewhere in the afternoon.

By doing so, you can slowly explore Ait on the day of arrival, spend a night in one of the many hotels in the surrounding area, and wake up early to experience Ait during sunrise – which to me, is the absolute best way to do so, and absolutely worth a shorter night of sleep.

Besides the more intimate experience, it also offers exceptional photography opportunities, as the light will most likely be perfect, and zero people obstruct your frame, meaning you’ll save a significant time on retouching and clone stamp work in Photoshop – those who know, know.

6. Don’t forget to explore the surrounding area

After uncovering Ait Ben Haddou inside and out, it makes perfect sense to continue your exploration mode, as the surrounding area has plenty of impressive sights to uncover. 

First, there is the famous Atlas Studios in Ouarzazate, known for the filming of many big-screen productions, including Prison Break, Alladin, The Mummy, Game of Thrones, and Vikings.

While it feels a little outdated, it is still quite an interesting place to have a look, knowing that some excellent films have been filmed right here.

Secondly, there is Tamedakhte, a charming, unrestored kasbah in the heart of the Ounila Valley about a 10-minute drive from Ait Ben Haddou. 

Contrary to Ait, the kasbah of Tamedakhte is a hidden gem not yet discovered by the masses, which makes it an interesting sight to roam around for a few moments.

Last but not least is the magnificent Telouet Kasbah, a time-worn ksar also known as the former seat of the powerful El Glaoui tribe.

Don’t be fooled by the decayed outside here, as the inside is actually something quite spectacular, complete with intricate carvings, painted cedar and colourful zellige mosaic tilework.

Telouet could also be your first stop if you’re doing a road trip from Marrakech to the Sahara.

I chose to visit Tamedakhte and Telouet on my way back to Marrakech, as it was a scenery drive from Ait Ben Haddou back to the start of the Atlas Mountains. 

If you’re interested in my Morocco road trip itinerary, you can read it here.

The best time of day to visit Ait Ben Haddou

As with most famous UNESCO World Heritage sites, Ait Ben Haddou is best visited early in the morning, when the organized tour busses have not yet arrived, and hoards of people have not yet invaded the time-worn streets of the kasbah.

Alternatively, a late afternoon visit is also a great option, as most organized tours already ventured onwards in the direction of the Sahara desert.

If you’re not planning to be part of an organized tour and wish to explore this part of Morocco as part of an adventurous road trip (which you definitely should), I would highly recommend arriving at Ait Ben Haddou in the late afternoon, so you can start off with a slow afternoon roam and a stunning sunset from one of the various vantage points or the summit of Ait itself.

I also recommend that you plan to spend the night in one of the many excellent hotels found in the surrounding area, as it gives you one incredible advantage; an early morning rise and a completely empty Ait during sunrise – an experience that truly blew my mind.

How long do you need at Ait Ben Haddou

Given Ait is super stunning during sunrise and sunset, I recommend spending at least one night in the area so you can easily witness both without the feeling of being rushed.

I personally visited Ait Ben Haddou twice, once on a 3-day guided tour to the Sahara, and once on a self-driven road trip from Marrakech, and if I had to choose one, the latter would win every time.

The reason for this is that the first option will give you solely 2 to 3 hours to roam around the kasbah, which to me doesn’t do justice to this place.

Therefore, I would recommend arriving here late in the afternoon and moving on the next morning right after your sunrise mission, so you have the best of both worlds, while also having plenty of time to take it slow and roam around without a plan.

Join a guided tour

The easiest way is by going with a tour operator. Our visit was part of a tour we had with GetYourGuide. A nice thing about going on a tour is that you don’t have to worry about planning at all. We even stopped a few times to take some pictures in the Atlas Mountains.

The only downside about going with a tour is that you have to stick to a schedule and in this case that resulted in only 3 hours at Ait Ben Haddou.

What to pack for your Ait Ben Haddou visit

While I don’t think you need to bring specific things to Ait Ben Haddou itself, I still mention my take on what to pack for your trip here, given you will most likely visit Ait as part of a longer Morocco road trip.

If that’s the case, there are a few things I would advise bringing, so you will not face any surprises. 

A Hat | Sun Protection |  Warmer Clothes (this area gets surprisingly cold during the nights) | A camera – see what’s in my camera bag here | A power bank (especially if you venture into the Sahara) | Sufficient amounts of Cash | Water Filter Bottle – I’d highly recommend looking into the Grayl Geopress