Situated in the midst of the Adriatic sea, just off Croatia’s beloved Dalmatian coast is Hvar, a paradisiac island that is really up there with the best of ‘em.
At present, Hvar is among Croatia’s most visited islands, and that’s no wonder if you ask me!
From the twisting cobblestone laneways of Hvar old town to the turquoise waters of the Pakleni islands, the with lavender covered hills of Brusje to the world-class pebble beaches and coves, Hvar truly is like no other island I’ve ever set foot on.
But to me, there are a myriad of other things that contribute to Hvar’s charm.
Think mouth-watering Dalmatian cuisine, well-preserved ancient fortresses, stunning Venetian architecture, and authentic local villages dotted throughout the island.
Not to mention that the island spoils visitors to some of the most stunning sunsets in the Mediterranean.
To help you plan your own trip to Hvar, I’ve put together this guide, including all the best things to do in Hvar, the finest Hvar beaches, and where to stay – plus all the essential travel information to help you make the most of your trip here!
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The New Where the Souls Wander Print Store
After putting out my first-ever print collection in 2022, I decided it was finally time to re-open my print store, and I couldn’t be happier with the result.
Whether you’re looking to grab a unique piece for your own wall, gift one to a loved one to remind them of a memorable trip together, or simply get your hands on a piece because it provokes a specific memory or feeling, I’d be honoured and grateful if you decide to collect or gift one of my prints.
To celebrate the launch, I’m offering a 20% discount until the 24th of December.
Where is Hvar
Hvar Island is poised between the islands of Brac and Korcula in the midst of the Adriatic Sea, just off the popular Dalmatian coast of Croatia.
Nicknamed the island of sunshine, Hvar is considered the sunniest spot in Croatia, as well as the country’s most luxurious beach destination.
Where to stay on Hvar
Hvar is by far one of the most popular destinations for travellers to Croatia.
As a result, you’ll find loads of excellent accommodation options. Think cosy apartments, budget-friendly hostels, fancy oceanfront resorts and everything in between.
However, if you’re looking to stay in Hvar Town, make sure you have your accommodation sorted out as soon as possible.
The old town is quite popular among travellers, which makes it sort of challenging to find accommodation that suits your travel style and budget, especially during the peak summer months.
To help you out, I’ve listed a few of my personal favourites below, some of which are marked – these are the ones where I stayed myself.
+ Villa San Marco | During my first time on the island, I stayed 3 nights here. This small family-run guest house felt like a home away from home and offered me exactly what I needed to rest and enjoy the island. The room comes with a comfortable double bed, air-conditioning, a small kitchen, and an excellent bathroom. On top of that, I was given a lot of insider tips from the friendly host.
Apartments Villa Tudor | If you’re after a bit more luxury, look no further, Apartments Villa Tudor is exactly that, and even more. Located only 100 meters from the action, this apartment is charmed by excellent design, a comfortable double bed, and an overall spacious layout. An outstanding option for couples and families.
Apartments Juric | Situated slightly out of Hvar Town, Apartments Juric offers a bit more tranquillity, while still having the most popular things to do in hand reach. The apartment itself has a spacious layout, is air-conditioned, and has an excellent bathroom ensuite. Altogether a perfect apartment if you’re after a calmer place to stay.
+ White Rabbit Hostel | Nestled in a picturesque alley just off Hvar’s historic main square, White Rabbit is a welcoming hostel that offers comfortable shared rooms for a great price. The hostel has a spacious common room, and air-conditioning, and is close to all the best things to do in Hvar. I visited White Rabbit because I was keen to end my Croatia trip on Hvar, and had an excellent time there.
If the above accommodations do not resonate with your travel preferences, search accommodations on Hvar on booking.com.
13 Incredible things to do in Hvar, Croatia
1. Explore the narrow laneways of Hvar Old Town
Early morning walks when the whole island was still asleep, was easily my favourite thing to do in Hvar.
Charmed by intriguing Venetian architecture and narrow cobblestone laneways, Hvar’s medieval old town was an open invitation to experience a unique and authentic side of Hvar.
Throughout my entire stay on the island, I’d set my alarm at 05:30, happy and energized to discover the twisting laneways of Hvar’s old town – all while the morning sun slowly started to illuminate the rustic buildings, and the locals began their daily activities.
To fully experience this side of town, I’d suggest walking slowly and be curious to watch the stories unfold around each and every corner. Also, I encourage to get lost on purpose rather than using a map.
2. Admire the views from the Hvar Fortress
Hands down the best views over both Hvar Town and the picturesque Pakleni Islands are obtained when hiking to the summit of the rustic Hvar Fortress.
Perched high on the hill above Hvar Town, overlooking the town’s iconic tangerine-coloured roofs and appealing harbour, Hvar Fortress is a medieval stronghold that dates back as far as the 6th century.
It is often said that the one that controlled the Mediterranean, gained power over one of the most significant trading routes, which connects Southern Europe, North Africa, Levant, and Anatolia.
For that reason, the Hvar Fortress has been occupied by many, including the Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Austrians.
At present, the fortress is an impressive reminiscence of the original construction that was built under Venetian rule in the 13th century. Since it has been further modified by Spanish engineers in the 14th century, it is also named the Spanish Fortress of Hvar.
To get to the fortress, take a gentle walk from St Stephen’s Square, through the picture-perfect laneways and up several steps, followed by a winding trail through a flourishing pine forest.
Make sure you have your camera in hand throughout the entire trail. Believe me, it’s not only the stunning views from the top that make visiting the fortress one of the best things to do in Hvar.
Where | Hvar Fortress
Opening hours | Daily 08:00 – 21:00 – from April to October
Cost | 60 HRK (€8,-) per person
3. Relax at one of the many excellent Hvar beaches
It is no wonder that an idyllic island in the midst of the Adriatic Sea houses a bunch of the most beautiful beaches in Croatia.
Dotted along the coastline of Hvar, you’ll discover incredible beaches, each more beautiful than the last.
Think remote coves, picturesque pebble bays, trendy beach clubs, and everything in between – Hvar Island has plenty of relaxing beachside options, suiting every traveller and their desires.
Some of my favourite Hvar beaches include:
POKONJI DOL
Located only a short walk from Hvar Old Town, Pokonji Dol is a charming pebble beach that is both accessible and comfortable – which makes it one of my favourite beaches on the island.
Also, this pebble cove is home to a great dock to lay down your towel, an excellent local restaurant in Mustaco, and fewer travellers around compared to other beaches close to Hvar Town. On top of that, there is a large number of affordable sunbeds for hire.
Where | Pokonji Dol
Cost sunbed hire | 80 – 100 HRK, (€10,75 – 13,30) per day
MEKICEVICA BEACH
Mekicivica Beach, poised between Pokonji Dol and Milna, is the hidden beach you have always dreamed of.
With a completely secluded pebble cove and absurdly clear turquoise water, and only you can enjoy it, Mekicivica Beach is hands down one of the best beaches on Hvar.
In merely 15 minutes through a dense pine forest, you walk to this small, yet paradisiac stretch of beach. Additionally, Mekicevica Beach is accessed by a boat that leaves from the docks in Hvar Town.
Where | Mekicevica Beach
Cost boat to Mekicevica Beach | Around 50 HRK (€6,70) for a return trip
MALO ZARACE BEACH
When it comes to the best Hvar beaches, Malo Zaraće Beach will always be a topic of conversation.
Flanked by insane rocky cliffs lies Malo Zarace Beach, a secluded beach that is, fortunately yet to be discovered by mass tourism.
Do note that this exceptional rock formation splits the coastline of Zarace into two coves; Malo Zarace and Velo Zarace. The first one is less visited and in my opinion easily the better of the two.
Though Zarace is located at a 20-minute drive from Hvar town, I’m one hundred per cent sure that you’ll be delighted by the unique landscape, clear turquoise water, and relaxing overall ambience.
Where | Malo Zarace Beach
4. Enjoy Hvar Square and admire the St. Stephen’s Cathedral
Said to be the largest square in Dalmatia, the Hvar Square is a broad town square that is deemed the beating heart of the old town.
On warm summer evenings, travellers and locals gather here in large numbers to admire the wonderful Venetian and Renaissance buildings or to sit down at one of the many cafes and restaurants that lie adjacent to the square.
However, for the best local cuisine, it’s better to dive a little deeper into the laneways of the surrounding old town. Not only are the best bars and restaurants found here, but you also save up significantly on your food bill.
But for me, the biggest draw of Hvar Square was the array of impressive ancient buildings; the Cathedral of St. Stephen, the bell tower, the Arsenal, and the Venetian Loggia in the extension of the square.
In the east of the square, the St. Stephen’s Cathedral is the absolute highlight. With its baroque design elements, picturesque bell tower and typical Dalmatian architecture, this 16th-century cathedral remains one of Hvar’s top historic sights.
Sitting down at Hvar Square to see daily life unfold, was one of my favourite things to do in Hvar.
Where | St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Hvar
5. Enjoy creative contemporary cuisine at Fig Hvar
One morning, while strolling through the picturesque cobblestone streets of downtown Hvar, I stumbled upon Fig, a cosy restaurant whose menu teased me with the most delicious locally grown dishes.
At that very moment, I realized that I’d found an excellent place to have dinner later that day.
I pulled up here for a late dinner and treated myself to the Chimichurri Potatoes and the Mexican Pulled Pork, which were both very tasteful.
Upon arriving, there was a small waiting queue, which to me, indicates that a place lives up to its reputation. After a short wait, my table was ready and the waiter offered me a drink on the house.
Modest as I am, I ordered the red house wine, by which the waiter recommended the locally grown Tomic Plavac wine, which turned out to be the best wine I sampled during my Croatia trip.
That said, Fig is a place you simply don’t want to miss out on.
In the end, I came here to try the breakfast too – which makes for a good reason to stop by.
Where | Fig Hvar
Opening hours | Daily 10:00 – 14:00 & 18:00 22:00
6. Appreciate Hvar’s iconic Franciscan Monastery
Encircled by a peaceful garden of aged cypress trees, overlooking a good-looking cove, this 15th-century monastery is one of Hvar’s most recognizable buildings, as well as my favourite.
Inside, the Franciscan monastery houses a small, yet impressive museum that showcases antique laces & coins, nautical charts, and a valuable edition of the Ptolemy’s Atlas, which was printed in 1524.
The real draw though is the Last Supper; an appealing 8 by 2,5-metre work of art that was composed by Venetian painter Matteo Ingoli at the end of the 16th century.
If you’re like me and enjoy a seaside stroll in the early morning or late afternoon, I’m sure you will be charmed by the Franciscan Monastery time and time again.
Where | Franciscan Monastery, Hvar
Opening hours | Daily 10:00 – 12:00 & 17:00 – 19:00
Cost museum | 30 HRK (€4,-) per person
7. Uncover the stunning Pakleni Islands
The one thing that repeatedly became the topic of conversation when I chatted with the Hvar locals, was a boat trip to the Pakleni Islands, and that’s for an excellent reason.
The ‘picture-perfect’ Pakleni Islands is a bundle of 16 islands, scattered throughout the clear turquoise waters as opposed to the stunning coastline of Hvar Town.
If you’re keen on exploring the Pakleni Islands, rent yourself a small Pasara boat and navigate the calm Adriatic sea, in search of the most stunning beaches and deserted coves.
At first, I was quite surprised when I heard that you don’t need a license – or any experience to rent and operate a small Pasara boat. You do however get a short instruction, where you learn all the basics to operate a boat in a responsible manner.
If you’re not feeling comfortable with operating a boat, alternatively make use of the taxi boats that depart at the main harbour of Hvar Town.
A 15-minute transfer brings you to one of the major islands in the archipelago, including Jerolim, Sveti Klement, Marinkovac, and Mlini Beach.
Where | Pakleni Islands, Hvar
Cost boat rental | Starting at 400 HRK (€54,-) for a Pasara boat
Cost taxi boat | 60 HRK (€8,-) return
Recommended tour | Experience one of the most unique natural phenomena in the world with the Blue & Green Cave Day Tour From Hvar.
8. Take in the views from the Napoleon Fortress
Climbing the Hvar Fortress might be the number one thing to do in Hvar, it is the higher-positioned Napoleon Fortress that provides even more spectacular views.
The French fortress, better known as the Napoleon Fortress, is situated just west of the popular Spanish fortress, and hiking to the summit takes roughly 30 minutes when starting from Hvar old town.
Once you arrive at the top, you’ll be welcomed by some of the most stunning views Hvar Island has to offer, showcasing both Hvar town and the Pakleni Islands in the distance.
If you’re interested in climbing the fortress, I have one recommendation: make sure you visit the Napoleon Fortress during the golden hour. It is truly a magnificent experience to see the streets of Hvar Old Town bathed in the most soothing glow of golden hues.
In my honest opinion, this place and its views are unrivalled, and although many people consider skipping it, I would say not to, but hey, it’s up to you!
Where | Napoleon Fortress, Hvar
Cost | Free
9. Sample Lavender ice cream, Hvar’s local delicacy
When it comes to unique local flavours, lavender ice cream really is up there with the best of them.
As soon as I heard of this local phenomenon, I had only one mission: trying to get my hands on the best lavender ice cream on the island.
At first, I was a bit sceptical, but after my first scoop, I was instantly hooked to the subtle, yet refreshing floral flavour that lavender ice cream had to offer.
Since that moment, not a day went by without this local refreshment, often in combination with an extra scoop (or two) of other delish flavours.
After spending five days on the island, I came to the conclusion that my personal favourite lavender-flavoured ice cream is found at Pharos, a small gelato boutique on Stari Grad’s Riva.
However, if you’re solely staying in Hvar town, yet still are curious to taste this delicacy, make sure to head over to Slasticarna in the harbour of the old town.
That said, make sure to try at least one scoop of this local refreshment, before leaving the island.
10. Walk the old town of Stari Grad
For those keen to explore an authentic side of Hvar, look no further, Stari Grad – literally meaning ‘old town’ – is the perfect place to feel the ‘real’ Hvar vibe.
The oldest town on the island, Stari Grad is an excellent alternative destination, just northeast of the bustling city centre of Hvar Town – and serves as a quiet summer day trip.
Stari Grad’s small town centre is charmed by quiet laneways, rustic white-washed buildings, historical churches, and a wide array of small locally owned boutiques and restaurants.
During my visit, I really enjoyed roaming through Srinjo Kola, a vibrant street that runs straight through the heart of town. This lively laneway is home to a great number of restaurants and cafés, souvenir shops, as well as an authentic alternative tourist board in ‘The Hvar Island Concierge’.
So, if you’re on the Island for a few days, make sure you experience this ‘untouched’ side of Hvar too.
Where | Stari Grad, Hvar Island
11. Enjoy a refreshing drink at Backlane Hvar
One day, when I came back to the hostel after a relaxing beach day on Pokonji Dol, I got into a chat with a friendly guy named Enrico.
After a short chat, we decided to go for a walk in search of a place to have a few drinks and we luckily stumbled upon BackLane.
Set in a charming alley of Hvar Old Town, BackLane is a lively bar that specialises in craft beers and cocktails, all based on locally grown organic ingredients.
Since the beginning of 2020, the bar, run by three childhood friends, opened a small brewery just 200 meters from BackLane’s doorstep, resulting in a handful of delightful beers that are crafted to perfection.
Once we were seated, I ordered their locally brewed IPA, an excellent beer that is defined by a hoppy flavour and refreshing aromas. Which to me is the perfect treat during a hot summer’s evening.
On top of that, BackLane offers an authentic local setting, the most friendly staff and a great amount of knowledge when it comes to their craft, which makes it not only an excellent bar to sample local craft beers but also to sit down and chat with the Hvar locals.
Where | BackLane, Hvar Town
Opening hours | Daily 09:00 – 01:00
12. Visit the Lavender fields in Brusje
With a fragrance like no other, Lavender is a healthy aromatic plant that has been used on a daily basis since ancient times.
Nicknamed the island of lavender, Hvar once produced 8% of the world’s total lavender production.
If you follow the old road from Hvar Town for 15 minutes – or the smell of fresh lavender in the air, you’ll reach Brusje, a small village that is home to the majority of Hvar’s violet-coloured lavender fields.
Originally founded as a shepherd settlement in the 16th century, Brusje is now a village that is entirely committed to the production of lavender and rosemary etheric oils.
If you’re keen to see the lavender fields in Brusje, make sure you visit the island in June or July, when it’s the ideal time to see those lavender fields in full bloom.
This is also when the annual two-day Lavender Festival in neighbouring Velo Grablje occurs, which I sadly had to miss due to heavy rain showers and thunder.
Where | Brusje, Hvar Island
13. Enjoy the ultimate summer afternoon at Konobo Mustaco
Tucked away on Pokonji Dol – one of my favourite Hvar beaches – is Konobo Mustaco, a buzzing beach restaurant that has everything for the ultimate summer getaway feeling.
This locally-run restaurant is an incredible place to sit at any time of day, yet it is most popular for beachside breaks, a late afternoon snack, and sunset drinks.
It is said that the best things in life are often pretty simple, so do as I did and order a plate of fresh watermelon and enjoy a relaxing afternoon at one of Hvar’s finest beaches.
But Mustaco isn’t only to seek shelter from the sizzling Mediterranean heat, it is also a great place to sample excellent traditional Dalmatian cuisine, especially for those who fancy freshly caught seafood.
On top of that, Mustaco has a large number of sunbeds for hire, perfect for those after an afternoon of swimming, tanning and relaxing.
Where | Konobo Mustaco
Opening Hours | Daily 09:00 – 17:00
Cost sunbed hire | 80 – 100 HRK, (€10,75 – 13,30) for the day
Things to do in Hvar | The essentials
The best time to visit Hvar
Hvar is known to enjoy great weather year long, as it is considered one of the sunniest places in the whole of Europe.
As a result of these great circumstances, it can be extremely hot during the peak season of July and August. These summer months are also the time when the harbour is inundated with yachts, and travellers flock to Hvar in great numbers (roughly 20,000 daily visitors).
For that reason, I believe that the absolute best time to visit Hvar is during the shoulder seasons that run from April to June and from September to October.
During shoulder seasons the days are long, the temperature good, and little to no rainfall occurs, making it relaxed and enjoyable to explore the island at its full potential.
On top of that, you’ll notice significantly smaller crowds, resulting in the food and drink prices turning out slightly cheaper than during the peak season – which is a great addition.
My favourite day tours & activities on Hvar Island
If you’re after an organized tour to discover Hvar, here are some of my personal favourites.
How to get to Hvar
Whether you plan to travel around, or solely come to Croatia for Hvar, your journey most likely involves setting foot in one of the country’s most popular seaside cities; Split or Dubrovnik.
I’ve had a wonderful time in both cities, which you can read more about in my detailed Croatia itinerary.
FLIGHTS | HOW TO GET TO HVAR
If you’re planning a trip to Hvar, you probably enter Croatia via plane through Split or Dubrovnik, as both cities have an airport that host the majority of European and international airlines.
For flights to Split or Dubrovnik, I would recommend checking out Skyscanner. Their website is user-friendly, holds a great variety of airlines and grants the possibility to find great deals.
FERRY | HOW TO GET TO HVAR
You’ll be surprised how easy it is to actually get to one of Croatia’s stunningly beautiful islands.
The journey is operated by ferry, and services frequently throughout the day between most of the islands, including Brac, Hvar, Korcula, and Mjilnet, as well as the popular coastal towns of Split and Dubrovnik.
Besides the wide array of destinations, these ferries are also comfortable, affordable and punctual.
The main operators that service the islands are Jadrolinija and Krilo, and it is easy to book your tickets online. Alternatively, purchase your tickets at the ticket booth in the concerned harbour.
From my experience, I’d highly recommend booking your tickets in advance, especially during the peak summer months.
How to get from Split to Hvar | The ferry from Split to Hvar departs from the first pier at the main harbour in Split (closest to both the ticket booth and the Split town centre).
Always make sure that you’re at the right terminal by checking the number that is indicated at the dock. If you’re not completely sure, feel free to ask the ticket vendor.
The journey itself is pretty straightforward and takes roughly an hour.
Where | Split Ferry Port
Cost Split to Hvar ferry | 55 – 110 HRK (€7,40 – 14,80) one way, depending on the operator
Travel time | Roughly 1 hour
Split to Hvar ferry departure times | 07:40, 08:30, 09:00 11:00, 11:30, 13:00, 15:00, 16:00 and 17:00.
How to get from Dubrovnik to Hvar | If you’re keen to visit Hvar from Dubrovnik, you’ll have to go to the Dubrovnik ferry port, located in the neighbourhood of Gruz, roughly 25 minutes from Dubrovnik Old Town.
To get to the ferry port, grab a local bus at the Pile gate leaving for Gruz. Bus lines that operate in this area include no 1a, no 1b, and 3. More information on Dubrovnik bus lines here.
Once you arrive at the ferry port, it takes around 3 to 3,5 hours by ferry to reach the shores of Hvar.
Keep in mind that this route is serviced exclusively by Krilo, and departs once daily at 16:30.
Where | Dubrovnik Ferry Port
Cost Dubrovnik to Hvar ferry | 230 HRK (€30,70) one way
Travel time | 3 hours and 10 minutes
Dubrovnik to Hvar ferry departure times | Once daily at 16:30
How to get from Dubrovnik to Hvar | If you’re keen to visit Hvar from Dubrovnik, you’ll have to go to the Dubrovnik ferry port, located in the neighbourhood of Gruz, roughly 25 minutes from Dubrovnik Old Town.
To get to the ferry port, grab a local bus at the Pile gate leaving for Gruz. Bus lines that operate in this area include no 1a, no 1b, and 3. More information on Dubrovnik bus lines here.
Once you arrive at the ferry port, it takes around 3 to 3,5 hours by ferry to reach the shores of Hvar.
Keep in mind that this route is serviced exclusively by Krilo, and departs once daily at 16:30.
Where | Dubrovnik Ferry Port
Cost Dubrovnik to Hvar ferry | 230 HRK (€30,70) one way
Travel time | 3 hours and 10 minutes
Dubrovnik to Hvar ferry departure times | Once daily at 16:30
Safety in Croatia | Travel insurance
While Croatia is completely safe for travellers, I always aim to enter a foreign country with my travel insurance sorted out, and I highly advise anyone else to do the same.
Where we prefer to assume that everything runs smoothly during our travels, the reality is often that something can go wrong at any given moment – when that happens, it is better to be safe than sorry.
For travel insurance, I use Heymondo, as they offer full COVID-19 coverage, as well as a handy app with 24-hour medical assistance. Make sure you check it out – readers of WTSW receive 5% off any insurance policy too.
Cheers!
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