Where to stay on Madeira

Since Madeira is relatively compact, I highly recommend anyone to base themselves in Funchal, the island’s lively capital city.

Funchal is an incredible city and houses plenty of excellent accommodation options, while it’s also packed with history and culture, as well as trendy restaurants and cafes at just about every corner.

To help you find the right accommodation, I’ve listed three of my favourite options below, one of which is marked with a plus – this is the place where I stayed.

+ Vila Baleira | This was my base for the whole of my trip, and if you’re seeking comfort without spending your entire budget straight away, Vila Baleira will be perfect for you too. Located within the popular Lido area, this hotel offers spacious rooms, comfortable beds, a large rooftop terrace with a swimming pool. They also have a tasty breakfast spread, excellent wifi throughout the entire property, and a secured parking lot right under the property.

Hotel Cajú | Set within the heart of Funchal, Hotel Cajú is a great place to stay, with stylish double rooms, friendly staff, and a small yet excellent in-house fitness centre. All bookings come with exceptional breakfast too. One small downside though, they don’t have private parking.

NEXT – Savoy Signature | This budget-friendly hotel in the centre of Funchal has spacious modern-style rooms with comfortable double beds and a brilliant private bathroom with a rain shower. They also have an incredible rooftop swimming pool with amazing sea views. Double rooms at only €50,- per night make this place one of the best picks in Funchal.

Alternatively, search for accommodation in Funchal on booking.com.

Sunrise at Pico do Arieiro

Upon arrival, I advise you to head directly to Miradouro Juncal, Pico Do Arieiro’s main sunrise point, and without question one of the best places to watch the sunrise on Madeira.

While the main viewpoint of Miradouro Juncal is usually overrun by fellow travellers, the area itself is relatively vast, which makes it easy to find a quiet space to watch an epic sunrise unfold.

Section I

The starting point of the hike is situated on the left-hand side of the weather station, right after the parking area. The trail begins fairly easy with plenty of signposts and a clear paved pathway.

After about 15 minutes, you’ll reach the first real highlight; Miradouro do Ninho da Manta, a panorama viewpoint that is also known as the Buzzard’s Nest. Here you’ll find a small balcony that welcomes you to some of the best views of the surrounding valley.

After a short stop at Miradouro do Ninho da Manta, it is time to head in the direction of  Miradouro Pedra Rija, where you will find the incredible Stairway to Heaven.

On a cloudy day, this section of the hike is incredibly moody and dramatic, which is why it has become my absolute favourite part of the PR1 hike from Pico Do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo.

Section II

Once you’ve passed Miradouro Pedra Rija, it is all about descending, with plenty of stairs down until you reach the first of a series of tunnels, with the longest being roughly 150 metres long.

After a short while, the trail becomes flat and is literally carved out of the side of a mountain. Though this part isn’t the most picturesque, it was excellent to catch a good breather before the steep climb up ahead.

As mentioned above, it isn’t all fun and games. After following the narrow path for around 20 minutes, it is time to climb up a steep sequence of stairways, some of which are nearly completely vertical.

To me, this part is without question the toughest part of the entire hike, as it requires quite a bit of stamina to get to the other side of the mountain.

But as soon as you’ve reached the top, you will be greeted by stunning views of the entire region. I chose to have a short break here before I started the final section of the hike.

Section III

The third and final section of the hike begins with an easy, yet scenic path along a group of white dead trees. It’s pretty picturesque and relatively flat for nearly 25 minutes.

Right before the final climb, you stumble upon Casa do Abrigo Mountain Hut, a small cafe where you can get several beverages and snacks. After a quick stop and a coffee, it was finally time for the last climb up.

From the cafe, It took me only 10 minutes uphill until I reached the summit of Pico Ruivo

The Pico Ruivo summit

Upon arriving at the Pico Ruivo summit, you will be greeted by some of the best views of the island. On a clear day, you’ll have breathtaking views as far as the eye can see.

That, and you have now officially set foot upon the highest point on Madeira at 1,862m above sea level.

I’ve spent around an hour exploring the various corners and viewpoints of Pico Ruivo before making my way back to the trail.

How to wrap up the hike

While I personally chose to hike back to the starting point at Pico Do Arieiro, it’s also completely possible to do the hike in one direction.

Though it is worth saying that the hike out and back is rather intense, I also believe it’s an awesome experience, since the route back showcases the landscape from a totally different perspective.

For those looking to do the PR1 hike in one direction, I’d highly advise checking out Pico Transfers, as they offer affordable transfer services to the beginning and endpoint of the hike.

Additionally, if you’re an advanced hiker, it is also possible to combine the PR1 Vereda do Arieiro hike with either the PR1.2 Achada do Teixeira hike or the PR1.3 Vereda da Encumeada hike – but I’ll leave that up to you!

The PR8 hike on Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço is without question one of the most popular hikes on Madeira since it is quite easy, with a well-defined path throughout the entire hike.

The starting point of the hike is not to be missed, since it’s located at the roundabout immediately after the parking area.

From the roundabout, walk down the paved steps on the left and follow the wooden boardwalk until you reach a well-defined dirt path. From here, the path is clear and easy to follow since it’s wrapped around the first section of the peninsula.

After following the path for roughly 10 minutes, you’ll reach the first viewpoint; Miradouro de São Lourenço. Depending on the time of your visit, you have two options here: one, have a short break to rest and take some photo’s, or two, head straight for Ponta do Castelo or Ponta do Furado.

Since I went before sunrise, I opted for the second option and climbed to the Ponta do Castelo viewpoint, where I waited for the sunrise to unfold, which was quite a dope experience.

From the Ponta do Castelo viewpoint, it takes another 30 minutes before you reach the stairs to the final viewpoint named Miradouro Ponta do Furado.

Once you reach the end of the trail, you’ll notice a warning sign that says it’s not allowed to climb to the viewpoint. Despite the sign, there isn’t actually a reason to be worried. Yeah, the climb is sort of steep, but in overall the way up is more than safe.

However, there must be a valid reason for the sign – so being extra cautious doesn’t hurt you.

Though I believe this section of the trail isn’t nearly as impressive as the first section, the fascinating views that you’ll get at the Miradouro Ponta do Furado viewpoint make up for a lot.

On your way back you’ll notice a small cafe named Casa do Sardinha, where you can have a short coffee break before heading back out on the trail. From here, you basically follow the same path back to the beginning of the PR8 trail. If you did the hike before sunrise, make sure you add an extra stop at the Miradouro de São Lourenço viewpoint on your way back.

The best time of day to hike Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

As with most hikes on Madeira, the Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço is magnificent at sunrise, meaning the best time to start your hike is about one hour before the sun comes up.

While it’s possible to visit Ponta de São Lourenço at every time of day, I wouldn’t advise visiting during noon, as the light will probably be too harsh for photography – plus it can get really hot here during the day, and there’s no shelter on the trail.

Additionally, Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço makes for an excellent afternoon or sunset hike, making it perfect for those that opted for another hike in the morning or simply don’t like waking up early during the holidays.

The best time of year to hike Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

The PR8 hike on Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço can be done year-round, however, I believe the best time to visit is during the drier months of April to October. Not only will there be little to no rainfall, but you will also experience the characteristic landscape in its otherworldly burnt-orange colourway.

If you opt for a winter getaway on Madeira, the rugged cliffs of Ponta de São Lourenço will most likely be covered by a green blanket of grass due to rainfall that occurs during the offseason.

I did the PR8 hike on Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço at the start of October and had warm and comfortable weather, despite a short rainshower halfway through the hike.

1 | Rent and drop off your car at Funchal Airport

While it’s totally possible to rent a car in the Funchal city centre, I would highly recommend picking up your rental car at the Funchal airport, directly after your flight.

By doing so, you’re not only saving quite some time, but you also save nearly €80,- worth of taxi rides, which is quite expensive considering that the Funchal city centre is only a 20-minute drive from the airport.

Also, the majority of car rental companies are situated directly at the airport, which makes it pretty convenient to rent and drop off your car here.

Nevertheless, I wouldn’t risk renting a car upon arrival, since it’s likely that the availability is limited. For that reason, I highly advise booking a car in advance (more on that later).

2 | Save money by renting your car in advance

I assume we all prefer to keep the cost of our trips low, and one of the easiest ways to do so is by sorting out your rental car in advance through a trusted online car supplier.

For car rental on Madeira, I would highly recommend the use of RentalCars; an excellent online car rental service that holds over 900 of the world’s leading rental car suppliers. Additionally, I also highly recommend DiscoveryCars.

However, my best advice for car rental on Madeira is to book your car as soon as you confirm your flights since last-minute rates are remarkably higher than when you book in advance, especially during the peak summer months.

Additionally, if you want to book a rental car spontaneously when already on the island, make sure you ask at the reception of your hotel, they will most likely fix you a cheaper rate.

3 | Drive on the right-hand side of the road

Like most places in the world, you’ll be driving your car on the right side of the road. So unless you’re from the United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa or a former British colony, there isn’t really a big adjustment for you

However, if you are from a left-driving country, and it’s your first time driving on the right side, allow yourself a few days to get used to handling the car in the complete opposite way.

Though I’ve never driven on the opposite side of the road myself, I can totally understand if only the thoughts of driving on the other side stressing you out already.

If that’s the case, hiring an automatic car will make things a lot easier, as you don’t have to worry about changing the gears constantly.

4 | Drive one gear lower in the mountains

Madeira is famed for its extremely picturesque mountains and the steep roads that run through them, making driving here one of the absolute highlights on the island.

However, driving these roads can be quite a challenge at times. It also requires a slightly different approach than most of us are used to, including me.

When driving uphill, I would always advise downshifting to a lower gear so your car has the extra power to handle the incline.

This rule also applies when driving downhill, as driving in a lower gear causes your car to brake on the engine, which means there’s significantly less pressure on the brakes.

Of course, this doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use your brakes at all. In most cases, it is still necessary to use them, but just be a little more cautious to prevent overheated brake discs.

Also, make sure you live by this rule; don’t drive down a mountain road any faster than you drove up to it.

5 | Be extra cautious when leaving the access roads

One thing that quickly caught my attention when picking up my rental, was the fact that the access roads on Madeira were notably shorter compared to other countries I had driven.

The reason for this is that the road rules on Madeira imply that you stop your car on the access road, where you should wait until the lane is completely clear of passing cars, before inserting your own car.

Though it takes some time to get used to, I believe this rule is actually pretty good for the flow of traffic, as well as general road safety.

6 | Always fill up your tank before hitting the mountains

Winding through steep mountain roads requires significantly more fuel than your ordinary ride through the city, and filling up your car should be an absolute no-brainer before hitting the mountains.

Pair that with the absence of gas stations in the mountains, insufficient mobile services, and often only a few other people around, and you have yourself a blueprint to prevent stranding along the roadside.

So if you’re heading fort the mountains, live by this rule; fill up your car – and don’t say that I didn’t warn you!

7 | Don’t get confused by Gasolina and Gasóleo

One thing I can’t stress enough is that the Portuguese language can be quite misleading for those renting a car on Madeira.

As soon as you need to fill up your tank for the first time, you’ll notice that the words gasoline and diesel are only a few letters different from each other.

I hope this will clear up the confusion; Gasoline is Gasolina. | Diesel is Gasóleo.

If you’re not sure, don’t worry, it’s nearly always possible to quickly check with one of the gas station attendants to avoid filling up your car with the wrong fuel.

8 | Study the maps and download them to your phone

Before your road trip adventures, I advise downloading the offline map of Madeira on your Google Maps app, so you can also navigate the island when you lose phone services.

Believe me, this will happen quite often when driving in the mountains or through a tunnel.

Additionally, I would also recommend investing some time to research the best routes to take, as well as the duration to get to the highlights of your itinerary – more on that later.

9 | Plan your route in advance

Even though Madeira is pretty compact in size, you’ll be surprised how much time you could actually lose when driving from A to B.

While this obviously isn’t a problem, considering the stunning scenery along the way (trust me, you will stop a lot during your first days), it isn’t really useful if you want to make the most out of your time on Madeira.

Therefore, it’s wise to thoroughly research the highlights, and then bundle them in a logical day-to-day itinerary. I personally bundled my highlights per area. But I quickly noticed that I was a bit too enthusiastic, given the driving part took more time than I thought beforehand.

If you’re not from the logistics side of things, that’s ok. I’ve put together an easy-to-follow 10-day Madeira road trip itinerary, so make sure you check that one out too.

10 | Pick a hotel with free parking

One thing that is often overlooked when renting a car on Madeira, is the hidden expenses. One of those expenses is parking, especially if you choose to base yourself in the city centre of Funchal.

For that reason, I’d highly recommend finding accommodation with a free parking service before planning out your Madeira road trip itinerary.

I’ve stayed at the newly renovated Vila Baleira, an excellent hotel that provides its guests with a spacious and secure parking lot right under the property.

Add to that brilliant rooms, and a large rooftop terrace with a bar and swimming pool, and you understand why I chose Vila Baleira as my base.

Additionally, if you choose to select one of the fancy hotels in the heart of Funchal Old Town (these often don’t include parking), make sure you check out Almirante Reis Parking, where you can find a relatively cheap parking space too.

11 | Sort out your insurance

Even though I never felt unsafe throughout my Madeira road trip, I wouldn’t advise anyone to travel without having their necessary insurance sorted out.

First of all, I believe it’s quite unwise to leave out the full insurance option just to lower the cost of your car rental. By adding this, in my opinion, an essential option, the supplier will fully cover the car’s excess – plus the possible damage to the windows, mirrors, wheels and tyres.

Of course, full insurance comes at a price, but with Madeira’s fluctuating driving conditions, an accident may happen far more likely too. So I would say; it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Then there is your travel insurance, which, I believe, you should always purchase when travelling abroad, especially if you’re planning a road trip on Madeira.

For travel insurance, I use Heymondo, as they offer full COVID-19 coverage, as well as a handy app with 24-hour medical assistance. Make sure you check it out – readers of WTSW receive 5% off any insurance policy.

12 | Prepare for quickly changing weather conditions

Given that Madeira is made almost entirely out of rugged mountains, the island is home to several different microclimates.

During my 10 days on Madeira, the roads took me to sunny coastal towns, misty forests, mountain passages above the clouds, and everything in between.

For road-trippers, it’s therefore important to know that the weather conditions could change extremely quickly on Madeira – and I mean zero to one hundred, real quick.

As you drive around the island you will have to adjust to all sorts of unpredictable weather circumstances, and it’s exactly this that makes a road trip on Madeira unique.

Where to stay on Madeira

Since Madeira is rather compact, I highly recommend anyone to base themselves in Funchal, Madeira’s vibrant capital city.

Funchal is an awesome city in its own right and is home to plenty of excellent accommodation options, is packed with history and culture, plus it has trendy restaurants and cafes at just about every corner.

To help you find suitable accommodation, I’ve listed three of my favourites below, one of which is marked – this is the place where I stayed.

+ Vila Baleira | This was my base for the whole of my trip, and if you’re seeking comfort without spending your entire budget straight away, Vila Baleira will be perfect for you too. Located within the popular Lido area, this hotel offers spacious rooms, comfortable beds, and a large rooftop terrace with a swimming pool. They also have a tasty breakfast spread, excellent wifi throughout the entire property, and a secured parking lot right under the property.

NEXT – Savoy Signature |This budget-friendly hotel in the centre of Funchal has spacious, modern-style rooms with comfortable double beds and a brilliant private bathroom with a rain shower. They also have an incredible rooftop swimming pool with amazing sea views. Double rooms are only €50 per night, which makes this place one of the best picks in Funchal.

Hotel Cajú | Set within the heart of Funchal, Hotel Cajú is a great place to stay, with stylish double rooms, friendly staff, and a small yet excellent in-house fitness centre. All bookings come with an exceptional breakfast too. One small downside though, they don’t have private parking.